Measuring a garment and announcing the right size

Ask any second-hand seller what the first cause of returns, disputes and poor ratings is, and you will always get the same answer: size. Not condition, not delivery time, not colour. Size.

It is also the easiest problem to eliminate, because it depends neither on the platform, nor on the buyer, nor on luck. It depends on a measuring tape and four minutes per item.

Why the label is never enough

A 38 is not a 38. Between two brands, the difference in chest measurement on the same announced size commonly reaches six to eight centimeters, equivalent to one full size. Between a piece from the 1990s and a current piece, the difference is even wider, because size grids have shifted over decades.

Three factors add to this, which the label does not reveal. The cut first: a fitted 40 and an oversized 40 are not worn by the same person. Shrinkage next, which is real on knitwear and cotton washed several times. And finally the brand origin, with Asian size grids sizing noticeably smaller than European grids.

An experienced buyer knows this. That is precisely why she asks for measurements before buying, and why she moves on when they are not given. A listing without measurements loses sales silently: nobody writes to tell you she gave up.

The measurements that matter, category by category

There is no need to measure everything. Two to four measurements per item are enough, provided they are the right ones. All are taken with the garment laid flat, closed, without stretching.

Tops, shirts, jumpers, t-shirts

Three measurements: the chest width from armpit to armpit, the total length from the shoulder seam to the bottom of the garment, and the sleeve length from the shoulder seam to the wrist. Add shoulder width for jackets and structured shirts, where it determines the drape.

Trousers and jeans

Four measurements: the waist measurement taken flat at the top of the waistband, the hip measurement twenty centimeters lower, the inseam from the centre seam to the bottom of the leg, and the total length from the top of the waistband to the bottom.

For jeans, always specify whether the waist measurement is taken flat or as a full circle. This is the most common confusion and it makes a factor of two.

Dresses and skirts

Chest, waist, hips and total length from the top of the shoulder to the bottom for a dress, from the top of the waistband to the bottom for a skirt. If the dress is fitted, indicate where the marked waist sits, as a high waist does not fall in the same place depending on body shape.

Coats and jackets

Chest, shoulders, sleeve length and total length, plus one useful note: does the coat close comfortably over a thick jumper, or only over a t-shirt. This is the information buyers are really looking for and that almost nobody gives.

Shoes

Shoe size alone is not enough either. Measure the inside sole from heel to toe, and give the outside measurement if you cannot access the inside, specifying that. Add width at the widest point for boots, loafers and formal shoes.

The method, in practice

Set up once and for all rather than improvising each time. A flat, hard surface, a dressmaker's tape measure, and something to write with. The bed does not work: it sinks and distorts measurements by two to three centimeters.

Lay the garment flat, closed, buttons and zips fastened. Smooth it by hand without pulling. This is the critical point: stretching a piece to gain two centimeters gives a measurement that the buyer will never find again, and that is exactly what triggers a dispute.

Measure in centimeters, never in inches, and record to the nearest unit without rounding up. A chest width of 51 centimeters is announced 51, not 52.

Get into the habit of measuring at the time of quality control, when the item is already in your hands and already examined. Our article on checking condition before listing describes this mandatory step: adding measurements costs almost nothing more.

Where to write the measurements in the listing

At the top of the description, not at the bottom. A buyer hesitating between three listings will not scroll yours all the way: she takes the one that answers right away.

Write them as a short, readable list, one measurement per line, with the word that goes with it. Chest flat, total length, sleeve. No block of text, no abbreviations that only you understand.

Always specify measured flat. This note lifts the most costly ambiguity in the profession and protects you if the conversation turns bad. Our guide on writing a description that sells shows where to place this block relative to the rest.

A photo of the measuring tape placed on the garment usefully complements the text for high-value items. It reassures and serves as proof. Our article on photos that sell explains how to frame it without taking up a product photo slot.

Special cases to know about

Vintage requires extra care. A piece from the 1980s labeled 42 often corresponds to a 38 today. Never trust the label on these pieces and clearly announce the equivalent modern size in addition to the measurements.

Stretchy materials pose the opposite problem. On a stretch jean or a ribbed knit, give the measurement at rest and specify that the piece is stretchy, never specifying the stretch: you do not know how far the buyer will go and you would be responsible for the difference.

Brands that size small or large deserve an explicit line. If you know a brand systematically sizes one size smaller, say so. This information transforms a hesitant buyer into a convinced one, and sets you apart from all the listings that just copy the label.

Finally, altered pieces. A hem taken up or a waist taken in changes the measurements without changing the label. Always measure the actual condition of the piece, and note the alteration.

When size poses a problem anyway

Even well measured, an item may not fit. The difference is that you then have a factual basis for discussion.

If your measurements are accurate and written in the listing, a return request for non-conforming size is not your mistake, and you can say so calmly by referring to the announced figures. If they were not, better to assume quickly: an immediate refund costs less than a negative rating that will weigh on all your future sales. Our article on managing disputes details the procedure depending on the case.

For those managing significant volume, measurements are stored once and reused: on similar pieces from the same brand, a template library saves real time. This is the kind of tracking that a management tool like DressKare retains from one listing to the next, instead of redoing it each time.

What to remember

Three habits are enough to make almost all size problems disappear. Measure flat, without stretching, at the time of condition checking. Write the measurements at the top of the description with the mention measured flat. And point out what the label does not say: cut, brand that sizes small, stretchy material, alteration.

This is not perfectionism. It is what separates a listing bought without a message from a listing viewed and left.

Frequently asked questions

Should you measure flat or as a complete circle?

Flat, and you must write it. Flat measurement is the standard in second-hand because it is verifiable by the buyer on their own garment, laid out the same way. A complete measurement corresponds to double, and that is exactly where misunderstandings arise: a size announced as 40 centimeters without clarification can be understood as a waist measurement of 40, which corresponds to nothing. The mention measured flat clears up the ambiguity in three words.

How many measurements should you give per item?

Two to four are enough if they are the right ones. For a top: chest, total length, sleeve. For trousers: waist, hips, inseam, total length. Beyond that, you overload the listing without adding useful information. What matters is not the quantity of numbers but the fact that they cover the dimension likely not to fit.

What should you do with a vintage garment whose label no longer matches?

Do not trust the label and announce the equivalent modern size in addition to the exact measurements. A piece from the 1980s labeled 42 often corresponds to a 38 today, as size grids have shifted over decades. Indicating both, the original size and the current equivalent, avoids both dispute and accusations of misrepresentation.

How do you announce a stretchy material?

Give the measurement at rest, without stretching, and specify that the piece is stretchy. Never announce a range like 38 to 42: you cannot control how far the buyer will stretch the material or the comfort they expect, and you would become responsible for the difference. The measurement at rest plus the mention of elasticity is the wording that protects everyone.

Is a photo of the measuring tape useful?

On high-value pieces, yes. It reassures a buyer who is hesitant and it serves as proof if the conversation turns bad. Keep it as a secondary photo, never as the main photo: the first image should sell the piece, not document its specification sheet. On low-price items, the text is sufficient.